23 06 08

Okay, so I’m biased.

All I’ve seen of Europe so far is Schiphol and I feel like it’s good enough already; the clouds, blue sky, Dutch light that permeates every corner of the terminal. The flight here too was amazingly not horrible. Helps that I haven’t watched movies in a long while, I caught four, chose not to sleep, so as to pass the 12 hour flight more quickly.

Was sitted next to a Belgium couple who has been working in Singapore for 3 years, now relocating to Holland. The lady was extremely nice, giving advice and tips on where to visit, how to hold my bag when in the city – her motherly instinct obviously in operation upon realizing I was alone.

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I didn’t think I’d suffer jet lag as the difference only 6 hours but the rest of yesterday I spent with my head floating and my world spinning – like listening to too much trance and the horrible aftermath.

And for that reason, I’m surprised at how I managed to get to Prenzlauer Allee from Tegel to meet Charm. It’s amazing at how in those moments of being totally unsure of what to do, lost in foreign words and the public transport system, in those moments of carrying the backpack trying to remain inconspicuous and looking certain of where to go (when i’m really not!), God delivers.

May I just note at this point of time how I can’t help being enthralled by the amount of graffiti and murals there is everywhere in Berlin. I like.

Charm is being hosted in a really pretty apartment along Dunckerstrasse. From the balcony you hear someone playing the cello, a baby crying, guys having a good time. We had a late lunch at one of the cafes lining the streets. Mothers and fathers were bringing kids home from day care. Some cycled, some pushed prams, some had one kid in each hand, but these parents were mostly young, trendy. Queer, colourful characters and monster-sized German shepherds passed us as we ate. Lovely how all these different pieces coexist.

It’s chilly so try to walk in the path of the sun rays. I’m walking on cobbled streets and passing the prettiest buildings littered with flowers you can stop and smell. I’m in Europe.

24 06 08

I went down this morning to get us something to eat for breakfast while Charm worked on her cover letters. It was freezing and while everyone else were in their thick jackets and pants, this crazy Asian wasn’t. At the bakery, the choices overwhelmed me, and not only did I have to make a choice quickly, I had to figure out how to do so with no German vocab. “Ja” got me by. I am linguistically incompetent and I know it.

We had a nice breakfast in the kitchen, speaking about things we care most about, and I’m reminded why Charm is such a good friend and despite us being apart for most of the time between 2004 – 2008, so much has happened for the both of us and we get to meet up and talk from where we last left of. I thank God for her successes and accomplishments and her continued vigor and energy towards the things she’s most passionate about.

Sandsation by the River Spree. We decided to check it out, tried not to bring any of the castles tumbling down, sat by the beach chairs, had piña coladas and bradwurst, baked in the sun. I had a Keds mark in ½ hour. The later half of the day was spent at the Berlin Wall (East side gallery). I liked.

So for a while we didn’t think we were going to make it to A’dam cause we had not purchased any train tickets and buying them a day before meant we were going to pay over a 100 Euros just to get there. Fortunately, we found some last minute bus tickets, so quite heng. Amsterdam here we come!

It so happens that we travel with a whole bunch of other young people from all over. There’s French, Canadians, Americans and Singaporeans on this 12 hour ride. There was a 1 ½ hour delay as we all sat and waited in the coach, bonding over our common inability to understand the cranky bus drivers. Everyone swaps travel stories and gives concise summaries of the past few years of their lives in 2 minutes. It’s 9 p.m. and it’s bright. Charmaine and I exchanged ipods and this adventure has just begun.

Most photos you'll see in this post were taken by Charmaine, on her Canon EOS 350D Digital. Thank you love for capturing these memories, and for being such an awesome travel companion.

25 06 08

We arrive in A’dam at 5 a.m. and in the wee hours of the morning, making sense of Dutch and Straats, we find Anika’s residence, nestled in a gorgeous neighbourhood adjacent to one of the canals. The guest room was pretty basic and the showers all the way at the 5^th floor in this communal living block so we decided we were not going to shower till we get to Rotterdam.

As we pretty much didn’t sleep the entire journey, we crashed for 2 hours before starting our exploration of A’dam. Breakfast was at a cafe along the road and while diving into Bacon & Eggs, ambulances and fire brigades came roaring into the street. Apparently, some tourists overdosed, and they were trying to get their bodies out of the hotel room.

We rented bikes and got around the rest of the day with them, flouting road rules, almost getting ourselves killed, getting lost and all that before we finally understood how to be a cyclist in Holland.

We covered alot of ground despite not rushing. Passed Anne Frank’s House, checked out the Dam, went up the Zuiderkerk tower to a magnificent view, chilled out at Vondelpark where we had the most awesome toppings on a hotdog (spring onions really) while enjoying live African reggae music playing in the background. In the evening, we visited the red light district and settled into a bar for the Turkey vs Germany match. The bar was for Turkey, and us, very quietly, Germany.

Amsterdam surprised me. I didn’t expect it to be so ... beautiful.

26 06 08

We had breakfast at the same place this morning cause we enjoyed it so much the day before. The waitress remembered out exact orders, how’s that for service. Upset there was no drama or case of drug overdose this morning, we rode canal bikes to cheer us up, and it did.

While pedaling in gorgeousness, we had people waving at us, chanting Deutschland Deutshland! after the win. We passed houseboats, almost killed ducks and well, got lost in a not very complicated canal network that obviously perplexed us.

Landing at Rijksmuseum, we walked towards Albert Cuyp market to Netherland styled pasar malam.

We now ride to Rotterdam and on the sprinter, we pass plains and sheep and cow and Dutch houses I used to only see in books.

29 06 08

Serene’s townhouse in Rotterdam is gorgeous. She prepared the entire attic for us and we were saying how we transcended hell to heaven.Right after we settled in, we walked to the supermarket to stock up on groceries, just the way I like to first see a city!

After catching España upset Russia, we headed to Serene’s colleague, Habib’s place. It was a suave bachelor pad with a view overlooking the Rotterdam harbor.

Habib, who’s Moroccan, then brought us to Riva, a Dutch club, where we had lots of fun making fun of Dutch Djs and the things they say.

On our full day in the city, we checked out Kubuswonig, had lunch by the Bridge Erasmusburg, visited Rotterdam’s 11-floor library, and had tea alfresco in the city centre with sea gulls flying around us. The evening was spent at Serene’s church’s youth night. It was really such a blessing to visit, observe and unexpectedly be touched by the testimonies of these young individuals, many of whom come from migrant families now living in the Netherlands.

After the farewell that came so soon with strangers we just came to know, Serene brought us to Hotel New York, a charming estate, for dinner. We got to meet more of her friends, Lory and her boyfriend, both from France. We returned back to the apartment for some drinks and tried not die laughing watching the ridiculously pornographic sex ads that start to pop up on free to air tv after 1 a.m.

On our last day in Rotterdam, we drove out to the Hague, visited Madurodam, witnessed Veteran’s day and were treated to marches and parades.

We’re now back in Berlin, and scraped the idea of going to Brussels because it was more important to us, that we were in Germany for the finale :)

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Charm brought me to the Berlin flea market today. It was hot and sunny and shiok. They sold everything from old army uniforms, to photos, to furniture, to clothes, to bicycles. The crowd was trendy, young, in search for a good buy.

By the time we got to the Hauptbahnhof station to meet the rest of charm’s friends , Berlin was visibly overtaken by maximum soccer mania. Everyone was out, everyone was decked out in the country’s colours, mohawks were in stripes of red black yellow, young men were singing German songs, flags everywhere.

Germany lost. No party.

30 06 08

It’s half way through the year? Okay.

The eurosun has charcoaled me, I am so dark now I wake up wondering whose hands and legs those belong to. I have no choice now but to smear sun block on now. Can you imagine? Sunblock! I’ve never allowed those things near me ever!

Slept in today and when I woke slowly to the sound of church bells and pretty birds singing, taking my time to climb out of bed, I felt for the first time, that I was on a holiday.

I went down again to our favourite bakery to get us some lunch. I’m catching on some German phrases but hand signs and facial expressions really seem to do a better job.

Caught a German documentary in the evening at a pretty cool alley theatre. The documentary, Shadow of a Vendetta, revisited the struggle of a Kurdish family in Germany and the pressures they face from their societal norms. The filmmakers and the main subject were down for a panel discussion.

After the heavy viewing and discussion, together with some of Charm’s HIA friends, we moved next door to Pan Asia, a pretty chichi place that sold overpriced Tiger Beer and Chicken Satay. The conversations were hilarious.

01 07 08

After stocking up on groceries so that we can pack lunches and have cheap breakfasts and dinners, we had a mini fiasco trying to figure out the gas stove. We didn’t blow anything up and were therefore able to proceed to Schlossgarten Charlottenburg for some museum loving. It was 9 Euros well spent just indulging in crazy architecture and artefacts – but this is the only museum I’m going to pay to enter. I was never a M person. We walked through parks, bought ice cream, and allowed ourselves to get charcoaled, even more.

The evening was first spent at Gendarmenmarkt and then the night at the neatest Berlin hangout, Kunsthaus Tacheles. What used to be a department store now houses a self-organized collective of artists’ galleries, an urban beach, and after exploring levels of street/weird artwork and smell of cocaine in a ramshackle building, we arrive at the top-floor bar that captures the sunset. Got to meet some friends of HIA; the conversations centred around foreign policy, oh the life that awaits, I wonder if I can keep up.

Before we went to bed, we cozied into the kitchen with its warm light and yellow walls, drinking chai, gobbling eclaris and Pringles, talking about the things that matter.

02 07 08

Made waffles for breakfast • baked a pizza to pack for lunch • set out to kudam to visit the bombed out Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church that was magnificent • It’s summer! Everyone is frolicking in shorts and dresses for the first time since I came here!

After some unscheduled shopping, we journeyed to Tierkarten’s vast green area for a picnic lunch. We walked around the gardens till we reached Siegessäule. By the time, the sun has zapped us of our energy, climbing the tower was a tiring attempt. Through graffiti filled stairways, we raced and semi-died. So did everyone else who attempted. It was funny how people were wheezing by the time they reached the top.

We were so pooped I told Charm let’s skip museum island to return home to cook! I love my priorities.

We had fettuccine and meatballs as our last Berlin dinner before heading out to Reichstag, just in time for sunset. The panoramic view of Berlin isn’t as magnificent as that of NYC but the skies a purplish pink – that was magnificent. It was quite a way to remember Berlin by, as we returned home with cups of hot chocolate in our hands.

07 07 08

I’m in Hannover now. It’s been so nice being with family, especially after a train ride that had no windows, air-conditioning or ventilation.

In this span of 5 days, the cousins have taken me to authentic German diners, I’ve had my Kölsch , we’ve visited Spanish bars and had mexico-comparable pina coladas. We’ve checked out the city, the old town and Hannover’s very own summer festival. Food-wise, it’s been a gastronomical experience: Portuguese Kaffe and egg tarts, weinwurst from Munchen, gouda cheese, nutella crepes, kibas, tea at a French cafe, Mediterranean dinner with the most good looking Turkish waiter coming to check on us every 10 minutes.

I’ve stepped on horse poo, shopped at Asia mart and Hannover’s huge supermarket, stopped countless times to listen to buskers, shopped (unplanned but it’s summer sale!), appreciated fireworks, walked by the Maschee lake in the freezing night cold.

We always sleep at pretty unearthly hours but get to sleep in to make up for it. I’ve woken up to the sounds of a marching band playing on the adjacent street, got to be around when Janice’s midwife came to check on her; heard the baby’s heartbeat and felt it kick. We’ve had such amazing and earnest conversations. Leaving was tough.

08 07 08

After half a day of travel, I arrive at Copenhagen. We’re currently living in a townhouse with 8 other people. The house is filled with antiques so you’re not allowed to be clumsy.

We had dinner with some HIA folks by the water, lying on the grass, with jazz music playing in the background, until it got too cold and we needed to walk.

We sneaked into a bar without paying the entrance fee to enjoy the last part of a jazz session with very talented musicians. The Jazz Festival is in town and oh are we in for sucha treat. We then retreated into a very quaint bar and talked the night away, mainly about politics in our individual countries and cultures. By the time we walked home, we were freezing right up to our bones.

09 07 08

Just so I remember: Coffee by the square • book market that sold vintage hard cover classics, the smell of old pages • lunch with anika, julianna and robert by the city hall square with pigeons flying around us and the lousy bagpiper in the distance • farewells

On our own, we walked to the royal library, passed the Nyhavn, had ice cream while watching rowers paddle down canals, visited the Kunstindustimuseet cause entry was free on Weds, sat in the pews of a synagogue, stopped for tea as we needed sugar.

Copenhagen is picturesque, yet so liveable it seems. The streets are much wider than say A’dam’s, there’s water, good looking people, friendly people, English speaking people. Is that why people hardly migrate here because it’s so perfect it’s so expensive?

The area we’re living in, Christianshavn, pretty upscale. Vintage cars are parked by the side of the roads; in one of the canals, from the apartment’s window, I can see 2 ladies pulling up in their yacht, setting up a table and having dinner by the water.

10 07 08

We had a little hiccup this morning: we’re homeless tonight.

We went to the train station to dump our bags, and because the station will close from 2 a.m. to 5 a.m., we’ll need to find a place to sleep.

Airport! Crossing our fingers that it doesn’t go to sleep either.

In any case, the upset didn’t quite upset the rest of the day. We walked an hour to the Carlsberg brewery that was a lot of fun, journeyed on to Christiania – Copenhagen’s freetown filled with hash and hippies - a squatters’ paradise. We rested our cold bones at an awesome cafe overlooking the streets, walked on to Strøget only to be greeted by countless random basking acts – from jazz, to xylophones to participatory singing, such a delight.

It’s 12.34 a.m. We just finished watching what dreams may come and haven’t been kicked out of the airport so that’s good. It’s quite a party here, with four others around us sleeping. Goodnight.

Tunes: Lior, Vampire Weekend, Stereophonics.

11 07 08

Hardly got any sleep through the night – punks came in, made a din and by 3 a.m., the airport was a bustle. In any case, I gulped down a cup of coffee and we got through what we had to get to Sweden.

The central station had a line as people queued for iPhones as it launches today in Nordic countries.

It was a scenic drive from Copenhagen, to Malmö, pass other small Swedish towns, and then to our destination – Jönköping.

So Marie started crying first, and somehow as much as I wanted to myself, I just felt so happy that I couldn’t.

After the dramatic welcomes, we drove to their apartment to freshen up. Upon entering their very very pretty pad, I saw photo frames lining the walkway, and one of myself and Marie. I was flabbergasted.

CJ came home from work and the minute he said, “come here little sister”, it all became pretty real to me that I was seeing my favourite Swedes and this was not a dream. We celebrated the reunion with frozen strawberries in champagne.

Heading out for dinner, we walked towards the water and on the way, passed the communication school where both of them met, studied, and graduated from. We had Svensk planka and beer by the lake – such a welcome to Sweden.

Returned home to Nespresso and ice cream, I think I have excellent hosts.

13 07 08

Woke to Marie’s spread of breakfast on the table. We said to each other once again how we can’t believe we’re seeing each other, for real!

We had a super long breakfast of homemade cereal, cheese and three types of bread, before going to the city.

While it rained out (boo), we sat by Wayne’s Coffee and had Daim dessert and coffee. We caught up and chatted about family. Sunlight glistening in the Jonkoping waters.

In the supermarket as we pushed the kart along the aisles, it felt like we were back to our Target days! As we walked with our arms linked, Marie started tearing, this time almost sending me there too. It was very crazy, but I think we were just very happy. I don’t think I’ve been so touched and affected any time like this in the past 20 days.

We returned home to good news of CJ winning golf so we made dinner. I helped with potatoes and we role played to Hell’s Kitchen, danced to music from the radio, and made a salmon-run to the supermarket.

Joseph and Elin came over for dinner and over wine and a very awesome dinner, I couldn’t believe I was seeing everyone! Tis to good to be true.

After dinner, we played Swedish board games till 2 a.m., talked, over godis and 86% dark chocs, reminisced about our days in sweat pants and it really did feel like we were once again on someone’s couch at the garden apartments. How does that work?

14 07 08

After waking up to hugs and morning greetings, we had breakfast in front of the tv :) Today, we travel to Gränna and Visingo. With the window down, cruising down the highway in the trusty Volvo, and a view better than that of California’s, contentment was experienced.

In the quaint town, we saw how peppermint was made before boarding the ferry to the island. At Visingo, we took a horse carriage around the island, passed old castle ruins, churches, woods, traditional yellow houses made of wood. The weather was great, but the company was best.

K.O ed when we got back and after our siesta, we rented DVDs, watered the plants, and made dinner of Tacos and Swedish meatballs over gin tonic because we are alcoholic cooks. CJ commented that I’m getting better with the dogs and my alcohol and he is worried that I’m turning bad. I could only stare at my almost Russian friend.

We watched Kiss Kiss Bang Bang and Stardust and at a little interval, we went out to the balcony and saw the moon hanging so low down it was absurdly beautiful.

14 07 08

3 hour road trip to Stockholm, we had Charm’s iTrip so we were trippin (not in that sense) to We’re from Barcelona, Shout out Louds, and all things Swedish. Halfway through, we stopped for picnic lunch of Swedish meatballs and beetroot salad. I spotted a moose as we passed plains and plains of gorgeous fields, some filled with yellow flowers, some a lonely red house.

After loading up our stuff at Marie’s friend’s apartment (that really looked like a showroom pulled out of IKEA), we explored Stockholm. I was extremely excited about the buskers and I wasn’t disappointed.

We had dinner at a food court, Swedish-style. I had falafels and the chef said he’d throw in a free drink “only for you, because you’re so beautiful”. While I couldn’t help rolling my eyes, in my head, I love Sweden already!

The weather was pretty crappy so we thought we might as well hide it out by watching a movie – on the criteria that it was brainless entertainment because we were tired - so we watched Zohan, and found ourselves repeating too many catchphrases the next day.

15 07 08

With the weather perfect, we ran out, refusing to waste such a beautiful day in Stockholm. Something about how Swedish skies are lower and the sky the bluest blue. We checked out Swedish design stores, just how I imagined them to be. But the highlight of the day would have to be lunch at Josefina, I had veal, and the entire set up and deco of the place was fantastic.

Overlooking the harbour, we lay in the sofas at the deck and soaked in the Eurosun (for me, the last time). Dinner was late, and at the coolest tapas restaurant. We had heart to heart conversations and Marie kept offering her younger brother because he was tall enough.

I really enjoyed Sweden and what a way to end off the entire trip. It’s a lethal combo: perfect company + an almost perfect country. It was tough saying goodbye this morning, but I didn’t cry because I know I’ll see them again. Perhaps this time in Singapore, where we’ll sit watching a F1 race after a day of chilling in Cafe Del Mar and a round of golf in Sentosa, reuniting like we’ve never been that apart right from the start.